New Enzyme: Key to Anti-Aging Innovations
Nu Skin claims to have identified a previously unknown cause of skin aging that could help create products that combat wrinkles before wrinkles even appear.
Scientists from Nu Skin and Purdue University presented their discovery of an enzyme that produces age accelerating free radicals at the International Investigative Dermatology in Japan this week.
Relatively little is known about the precise internal causes of skin aging. However, Nu Skin claims to have discovered that the enzyme arNOX generates free radicals and contributes to skin aging. The enzyme is present and active in skin cells and its activity increases at the ages of 45-70.
According to Nu Skin: "Evidence of arNOX in the skin provides further insights into potentially revolutionary therapies for skin care, particularly because its activity correlates with the ages when people begin to see their skin lose its elasticity and firmness, and notice more discoloration and lines and wrinkles… If we can develop innovative ways to inhibit arNOX activity and prevent the production of free radicals in the first place, then we can address both sides of the equation - correcting free radical damage from external sources, while at the same time preventing free radical production from internal sources."
ArNOX is a significant discovery in the field of anti-aging, and is part of a class of newly-identified ECTO-NOX (external oxidase or ENOX) proteins. These proteins become increasingly active to generate additional metabolic energy as cell mitochondria age and produce less energy.
In the dermis and epidermis, arNOX generates superoxide at the cell surface that can damage adjacent cells, lipoproteins and other structural components of the skin's extracellular matrix, such as collagen and elastin.
Source: cosmeticsdesigneurope, May 15, 2008.
Increase in Counterfeit Products Entering EU
Counterfeit products have long been a problem in the pharmaceutical and consumer goods markets, and now counterfeit cosmetics are becoming increasingly prevalent.
Counterfeit cosmetics are entering the EU in increasing numbers, with a 264% increase from 2006 to 2007.
The counterfeits are now originating mainly from Georgia and Turkey . In 2006, China accounted for 37% of fake products reaching the EU, but in 2007, only 15.8% of the fake products came from China. Currently, 32.1% of the products are from Georgia, while 19.4% are from Turkey.
There is a worry that counterfeit products will be dangerous to consumers.
Source: dosmeticsdesigneurope, May 19, 2008.
Canada Continues Regulation of Ingredients
As part of the safety review of chemicals found in consumer goods, Canada has labeled a family of chemicals used in personal care products as toxic.
The industry will have 60 days to comment before the chemicals are added to the federal list of substances that are toxic for the environment or human health.
The 11 substances proposed for the toxic list inclcude Cyclopentasiloxane D5, most commonly used in personal care products.
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The chemical is a building block of silicone and considered to be an environmental hazard, especially to water-based organisms. I tis safe for humans at current levels of exposure.
Of the chemicals proposed for the toxic list, Vinyl Acetate was the only ingredient legally used in personal care that may pose a threat to human health. The substance is used is to make polymers, is rarely found in personal care products.
Under the Chemicals Management Plan, over 200 substances have been identified as potentially hazardous. Canada is examining these before releasing conclusions about batches of ingredients at regular intervals over the next few years.
A chemical designated as toxic will not be removed from the market , but being added to the list is the first step in a regulatory process to help control its use.
Canada’s system should create the most comprehensive regulatory system for personal care in the world.
Source: cosmeticsdesigneurope, May 20, 2008.
New Market Opportunity: Professional Skin Care
Professional skin care products are considered to be a growing new market opportunity, even though growth differs in various global regions.
Europe is the biggest consumer of the products and has an approximate 40% share of the $5.9bn global market.
In North America, the professional market is significantly outperforming the general market products.
Reasons for the high growth in the two established skin care marketplaces are noticeably different.
In Europe, the market is dominated by larger brands and is more focused on treatment than pampering, natural and organic brands along with anti-ageing products are spearheading growth.
Distribution channels are also behind the growth in Europe. Spas are spreading as old traditions are rediscovered and luxury hotels look to reward high paying guests. An increase in the number of spas accounts for increase products sales as well as placing the products in a luxury product niche.
In the US, spa treatments serve to introduce “take-home products” and thereby driving sales.
Additionally, professional skin care products are seem as an attractive alternative to invasive procedures, with skin toning and brightening products being the highest growing items in the US market.
In the US, many physicians are starting to sell these products to patients. Products include treatment for fine lines and wrinkles, acne, rosacea, skin firming, and toning, and other related skin care and anti-aging concerns. These products can be a lucrative new revenue source for physicians, especially physicians with recurring female patients, like family practice, OB/gyn, and dermatology.
The Indian market for professional products is at the ground stage, but has significant growth potential as more beauty institutes and spas are being established in India.
Currently, the Indian market is dominated by local natural and ayurvedic brands and whitening products. Anti-ageing products are not as popular in India as in Europe and the US.
Source: cosmeticsdesigneurope, May 16, 2008.
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